Knife-cut noodles are one draw to this tiny restaurant, which serves hard-to-find, chili-doused specialties of the Shanxi province. Order them topped with garlicky minced pork; pan-seared into a fluffy pancake with eggs and scallions; or in a blazing-hot beef soup. But stop at noodles and you’ll miss juicy dumplings in rich chili-and-pork broth and rou jia mo—Chinese “burgers,” served on griddled rounds of housemade bread.