If I were to flip you the bird left-handed, which I sometimes do to mix things up, you’d notice that my middle finger is crooked, with a bulged knuckle. Why does it look like that? Catfish noodling.

It’s been five years since customers could witness oysters being shucked at the bar at Tracks Raw Bar & Grill in Penn Station. "In a word, I was depressed," said longtime customer Bob Freedman, ...